The Journey

more photos

2007-12-05T00:48:00.000-08:00

http://www.flickr.com/photos/aloha2ian/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aloha2ian2/sets/72157600290772902/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11777147@N07/sets/72157601595941403/

somewhere else

2007-08-30T11:10:00.001-07:00

from the trip

Rubicon dreams lead me back to the beginning

2007-08-22T00:24:00.000-07:00

Just got back from a month in Central America. Surfed some fun waves. I hope the photos speak the words I lack.
If you'd like to check more, I've got some posted on my flickr account at http://www.flickr.com/photos/11777147@N07/sets/72157601595941403/

July 05, 2005

2007-06-06T10:20:00.000-07:00

July 05, 2005

Well, I finally made it to El Salvador! Right now I'm laying in bed that is covered by a bug net. I'll try my best to recapture what happened today. Got off the plane—not too bad—I thought to myself as I started to feel beads of sweat building on my forehead. That was in the terminal where the cool air was still escaping the airplane's cabin. Once I entered baggage claim, I was drenched with sweat. I got my bags, and fiddled around with them for about twenty minutes, trying to get situated. I walked to inspections/customs—the guy looks at me, nods at the stop light and I push the button. I was hoping for the green light, but of course got the red. But he just looked at me and laughed and told me to keep going. Wow, awesome. So I walked out into what felt like hundred degree wet air—and all at once—about twenty guys start yelling at me, "Hey! Taxi! Amigo! Punta Mango! Punta Roca!" I just looked at them and smiled; I knew I wanted to take the bus, so I kept walking. Then one of the taxi drivers said he'd take me to La Libertad for $25. As I felt the sweat drip off my nose onto my damp shirt, I decided a forty minute, air-conditioned taxi ride beats a two-hour hot bus ride. On the drive I realized El Salvador is very green. It also has a lot of road kill. Dogs, cats, goats, and horses were laying along the side of the road on the way to the coast. I saw a few guys walking along the side of the road. We passed La Libertad and I saw Sunzal and it looked super good, but had at least twenty people on it. We continued on. Finally got to Playa Zonte and we pulled up to Surf Camp Horizonte. The girl said ten dollars a night, and that they don't allow camping. I was bummed because in the email they said they allowed camping. Oh well, it's definitely worth it. Horizonte has a small pool, a bungalow style bar with four hammocks underneath it surrounding a bar that sells one-dollar beers. Perfect. What's even better is the surf-check tower/lounge. I walked up the stairs and could see the entire point. I walked up it for the first time this morning and saw an absolutely perfect and empty point, with head-high waves rolling through. Amazing. I surfed twice today for about three hours the first time, an two hours the second session. I've met a bunch of cool people already. Two Americans, three Aussies, and one Salvadorian. The owners of Horizonte are very friendly, especially Carol, who is Saburo's wife. The food is great next door. I ordered barbecued chicken, rice, salad, and fresh bread for four dollars. While eating I was laughing at how perfect it all is. After my first sesh, I slept on the hammock for awhile. Cool, I just found a tick on the outside of my bug-net. Unfortunately the water is pretty nasty. Apparently it rains quite a bit here, especially over the past week, so the water is pretty brown, as the river mouth flows directly into the point. The water is about seventy-five degrees, and it's difficult to cool off in the ocean. Earlier, I cut my toe while walking into the water. I'm a bit worried it'll become infected, so I doctored it up pretty well. I also forgot to put sunscreen on my upper back. Actually, I did put it on, but I was sweating so much when I put it on, that apparently it didn't stick. It probably just dripped away. I haven't had to fight for one single wave so far—even when the evening crowd of about twelve came out. Basically, as soon as you paddle to the peak another wave rolls in, and I feel obligated to take-off on it because I don't want a perfect wave to go to waste. My friend Pat has been out of commission because he ate something bad yesterday. He said an hour after he ate he was on the toilet. In the evening, after the session, me and Pat sat in the hammocks around the bar watching Transmitting Live, Football Schmootball, and some Lost video. A perfect way to end a perfect day.

A few photos to appease the masses

2005-11-20T15:35:00.000-08:00

An inexplicable world of underground pipes, et cetera.

Central America

Cusco

Fall's here

Cusco, again

Look how artsy this photo is. Jon's such a great subject.

Somewhere in Peru. Yes I surfed it by myself.

Central America again.

Machu Pichu

An Irish sunset

An Irish point break

I don't think "surfing your back yard" could be any more accurate. This was our view for about a week.

Another view

Bowling for waves.

Scotland

When you finish your first Mas, you must look proud, so we were told.

After one.. Too many.

PJ and Jon enjoying a beach in France

Jons house

I wonder what he's thinking about?..

Me taking it back to the old school on the twinny. A 6'6" pin-tail with two massive
fish-esque fins.

Uhm.. Yeah.. It was this good the entire time.

The Ozzie's and Kiwi; Luke, Sully, and Gareth

Judging by the photo's, you'd think it was a reef. All sand baby. Viva sand bars. All you agro guys can keep your reef's.

Check the guy in the bottom right hand corner about to duck-dive. That'll give a perspective on the size.

Left

Late drop

He locked right in there with a back hand stall, and came out.

The crew

Paris

No description needed.

Good fun

Partaaaay

OK, OK. Maybe we should go to sleep I said.

Peru

River surfing in Germany

Prague. Fairy tale city. Home of cheap and the ORIGINAL Budweiser.

Yay. Another blog.

2005-11-20T15:07:00.000-08:00

OK, the other blog went down, or disappeared or something. So, I guess I'll use this new technologically advanced blog.